Joel de Rosnay: Why learn to surf?

Joel de Rosnay, 83, started surfing when he was very young and at 83 he’s still surfing. He shares with you why we should all be surfers:

“Rather than confronting each other on the basis of power, we can try to exchange ideas on the basis of flow!”

His vision is always relevant, read his full interview here

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i’m a scientist teacher researcher i’ve always been a teacher i’ve continued to do research i’ve worked in the field of molecular biology and graphics molecules i.e. using computers to visualise complex chemical structures then i wrote books science writer and then i became a futurist i.e. i’m concerned about the future i try to predict it and write a bit about what can happen to us in the years to come we see the scientist researcher teacher science writer futurist

I think the fundamental notion is glide glide is a quality that you get with the right equipment and the right conditions but you can apply the notion of glide to life, i.e. rather than confronting each other in a power struggle you can try to exchange in a flow relationship that’s glide flow relationships are win win give and take give I give I receive don’t win you don’t lose I didn’t win you didn’t lose everyone can win by exchanging information solidarity sharing that’s the glide the notion of flow that the surfer can bring the notion of balance control and I would add rather of imbalance control and I think management is a question of imbalance control why because we’re confronted with paradoxical situations because of the environment because of the people we’re working with. because of the environment because of rising prices because of rising energy costs because of international competition as long as the cons are only confronted with challenges and the strength of the manager who holds his course well is the imbalance against lille a course he knows when they lose the balanced how to correct it so it’s the surfer who can teach him that I think being a surfer and a manager is a quality

I’ve managed large scientific institutes I was at the Institut Pasteur director of research applications at the Cité des Sciences director of foresight so I managed large scientific institutes I think that the qualities of a surfer manager are the ability to glide and the ability to find a way to glide around rather than confronting walls

it’s human we thought of our mates when I catch a nice wave here by the time we get back to the open sea the whole spot is café du commerce all the guys are there chatting waiting for the others they’re going to make you nice waves that are super so it’s the reward of a collective sport even if it is individual

when I can three years you still have to take it easy a bit my wife reminds me too often but I’m getting there I think it’s going a lot less than before I find it harder to get up but I’m happy to keep taking part

amr elliptical and pointing every day

i’m not i don’t have a pool near me but the machine at home is enough for me

always balanced and it fit a lot of girls a lot of vegetables a lot of fruit very little fat not a lot of meat certainly no sausage sausage analysts

and it’s the lightest rules practical for me and I see the results it’s typically epigenetic to be in the water surfing wakes up some anti stress gels pleasure the symbiosis between nature and man the human body is a symbiosis to be well in his skin and well in nature she has the impression that we don’t dominate nature but that we are complementary we don’t use it but we are complementary with it I thank nature all the time for giving me such a nice thing from nature I thank nature I clean the beaches then remove the rubbish yes to thank nature

and we gave by plane credit cielo two blows of flesh sacred of pollution surfing is simple in front of the best spot that you stick in front of home with just a swimming costume a block of paraffin

the make-up surplus with the coast of the basques there too much world but also with lafitenia the scénic slava that you see over there with high tide it is super with its knicks it is very often that it times the oar since here

try the stand-up paddle is impossible to see what it’s like but i prefer flat on my stomach on the board i prefer tradition i’ve tried the sen dog i’ve also got a thing called ergo surf which is an inflatable t-shirt on the front that you can lean on cambrai and if you can bring back hours without getting tired

I’m not worried about it, no, it’s good, I’m very happy for those who do it, I’m a bit worried about one of the dangers of foiling for people, it’s a lady who cuts against the grain if you can, and then when it turns over you’ve seen what it’s like in the wave, so that doesn’t worry me. I’m happy with what they’re doing I’d like to try it too Joel you talked about the spirit of gliding absolutely inseparable from your plan I’d prefer inseparable from this board which is quite special c ur quattro as you can see the a4 dérive which means which means that the daggerboard hooks into the water like parabolic skis, so you can make much tighter turns without the board coming out of the water, which is what we call a dd, which means that you can do dd in addition, because you can make v turns without the board coming out of the water. virages revenir faire des rollers des clubs bac ça c’est fabuleux pour cette planche elle a dit bonne taille elle est assez grand pour pouvoir ramener facilement bien recourbée au bout quand et du clapot mais tu viens mon petit pour la main d’oeuvre est la planche je la prends pour tous ceux- there japan for the small waves a little also for the large ones is better to have a board shorter in the large waves that a board too long if often the wind enters below it taps but I also use large board I hold much people to prick all the waves more easily how did you choose the top dimensions it’s your body that advised you know it by heart and it’s him that advised me he made the board to measure for me he looked at me and took a measurement he looked at me surfing he made the dive correspond to my skill to my ability surfing sur mesure says on us and uncertain and that always larcher by the file grace chevelu but to mention it it is a brilliant driver and at the same time very great surfers known for a very long time and one is very far from the boards for the surfers beginners in this direction I think with one knew to remake even not la moue c’était des planches en plastique en balsa recouverts de plastique transparent qui peut et 30 kg dans ces planchas on les tient sur le bord elle pèse huit kilos puis kilos et demi 9 kg même pas un changement fondamental les parents aujourd’hui ont peur des accidents pour leurs petits enfants qui veulent There are two or three rules that I tell parents and children. Firstly, when you fall and the board isn’t out of the water, stay under the water and don’t hit your head because if you go out too quickly to find out where the board is, it’s going to hurt you. secondly figuères false drift decide not to catch up your board of call by drifts can cut you the arm and especially the leash if it is rolled up around the fingers you can have broken fingers thus do not catch the board by the lily of which three tricks to make attention how to remain under water wait until the board falls again not to catch liche not here to catch the board by the drifts that avoids a lot of accidents and after when you become good you take leashes when you come you can take risks obviously there are the other surfers it is especially necessary to to be very respectful and of the other surfers respected the priority because when you leave a beautiful wave and a buddy you say to him listen the next one it is for me is that the year will be locate to him all the time it is going to prick it to you all the time thus it is necessary to be respectful and of the generous others