Learn to Surf in Hossegor : Everything you need to know to progress!

In the south-west of France lies a surf town that is nothing short of sacred ground. Part of Hossegor’s surfing magic can be attributed to an underwater canyon that extends into the mighty Bay of Biscay.
View content

This canyon allows powerful swells to break without interruption and discharge onto Hossegor’s shallow sandbanks. The result of this fortunate geography is an infinite number of straight-edged hollow barrels to which surfers from all over the world flock in search of their share of perfection.

Fortunately, and although there are plenty of pumping days, where waves can range from 6 to 15 feet+, Hossegor offers its fair share of small waves perfect for beginner and intermediate surfers.

That’s the beauty of Hossegor, no matter if it’s a maximum or 2 feet, there will be plenty of sandbanks along this stretch serving up perfect waves.

Outside of surfing, Hossegor is a thriving seaside town during the summer months, with parties every night, and a low-key, chic French vibe. To make sure you make the most of all Hossegor has to offer, this guide is here to help.

Where is Hossegor located?

As we’ve already mentioned, Hossegor is located in the Landes department in south-west France. This part of France is famous for its endless sandy beaches, beautiful lakes and idyllic pine forests.

Hossegor is a two-hour drive south of Bordeaux, which has the region’s largest international airport. Biarritz is about half an hour’s drive further south of Hossegor, depending on traffic. Biarritz has an airport with a small international service, mainly during the summer months, to European countries and the UK.

Getting to and from Hossegor?

There’s no denying it, Hossegor can be a tricky place to get to if you don’t plan ahead. Public transport in the town is pretty dire, with a bus service you don’t want to rely on when the waves are rolling in.

The best idea is to hire a car at the airport you’re flying into and keep it as a travelling companion for the duration of your stay. If you don’t drive, or if you’re travelling on a budget, your best bet is to take the train to Saint-Vincent-de-Tyrosse (which is a 10-minute drive from Hossegor) and take a taxi into town.

Once you’re in Hossegor, you’ll need to look for wheels, and a pushchair or electric bike is your best bet. Hossegor and the surrounding towns have immaculate cycle paths that make cycling in this area a real pleasure. At low tide, you’ll see locals and tourists scouring the beaches for the best spots on electric bikes or pedal bikes.

When to surf in Hossegor

The time of year you plan to visit Hossegor is very important as it’s a totally different place in summer and winter. You know all those parties and good vibes we mentioned earlier?

They close and go away in November and it’s really only the locals and a team of hardcore surfers who stay for the winter months.

Summer (June – August)

Spending the summer in Hossegor is one of the best decisions you can make. Of course, the swell isn’t always there, but the town’s atmosphere certainly makes up for the lack of waves.

French, Spanish, Italians, Germans, people from all over Europe and the world come to experience Hossegor at the height of summer. The days are long, the nights are longer, the weather is warm (on average 80°F), and the water is quite warm too, peaking in July and August at 72.14°F.

As for surfing, Hossegor is rarely flat, so even on short days you’ll find a 1-2ft wave somewhere along this stretch. The problem is that everyone will be scouring the surrounding area to try and get their share too.

So very early mornings can be smart to get a few waves in before the hordes head down to the beach and set up camp for the day.

But don’t get me wrong, there are some really fun summer swells that light up the waves along Hossegor, and it’s not uncommon to be treated to 3-5ft waves for a few days at a time.

Especially as we enter August and the Atlantic starts to produce one or two much-anticipated autumn swells.

Autumn (September – October)

September and October are, without doubt, the two best months of the year in Hossegor. Although there are still plenty of surfers in the water, the swarms of novice European surfers have generally left town, and Hossegor can finally breathe a sigh of relief.

Call it the golden period, call it a purple period, call it what you will, but it’s in these months that the waves really start to pump, while the water is still warm, and the weather pleasant.

Expect waves of 1.5 to 2.5 metres, with light offshore winds greeting the swells all day, which happens regularly. This is when the iconic Quiksilver Pro surf competition takes place each year, which is considered the unofficial start of summer. Open invitation industry parties are frequent during the contest.

It’s also not uncommon to see the world’s best surfers taking on the best waves in the morning, and refuelling afterwards in one of the local bakeries. The waves can get tricky from September onwards, so make sure you’re good enough to ride powerful waves before you go, because when Hossegor is open, it’s open.

Winter (November – February)

Although the calendar year tells a different story, in Hossegor November is very close to winter. By the end of October, the weather starts to get cold, the waves are generally big, and many people have left the town for milder pastures.

This suits anyone who stays, as it’s possible to have some great sessions with a handful of guys at this time of year.

The problem is that there’s almost nowhere to hide when the winter storms come to Hossegor, and when they’re huge and on land, there are no reefs or point breaks to take shelter. So, depending on how long you stay in Hossegor, winter can be a roll of the dice in terms of weather and waves.

You could find yourself with constant 4-6ft waves and offshore winds for a week at a time, or you could be faced with 15-20ft waves that discharge onto the outer break known as La Nord. As for the water temperature, it can drop as low as 54°F. Which, depending on where you’re from, can feel very cold or surprisingly warm for winter.

If you’re an experienced surfer looking to spend some time in Hossegor, then these months can feel like a winter wonderland, with the very real potential of getting the barrel of your life.

Spring (March – May)

Spring is also a pretty cool time in Hossegor. The summer crowds haven’t arrived yet and there are still plenty of opportunities to score points in the water. Especially in early spring, when the Atlantic is still very active and Hossegor is just coming out of winter.

Expect the water to be the same temperature in March as it was in February, but in April the water will slowly warm up to an average of 60°F in early May. The size of the swell will also begin to diminish, and you’ll be treated to waves of between 2 and 6 feet most days at Hossegor in the spring.

Of course, like everywhere else, there will also be periods of calm. But you’re much more likely to get world-class waves in spring than in summer.

The great spring tides are at work during these months, and finding a sandbank at its perfect tide window can be a challenge. This means being on the pulse and having a bit of ‘right place, right time’ luck to get uncrowded waves on the beach.

What combination is recommended?

Summer

Depending on where you’re from and your susceptibility to the cold, the ideal wetsuit thickness is open to interpretation, but this will be a good guide for Hossegor. In summer, most surfers wear 2/3mm wetsuits.

You’ll see surfers in short arm/long leg, long arm/short leg, shorties, and full steamers – there’s no universal wetsuit choice. Depending on the weather and time of day, you’ll even see surfers in boardshorts and bikinis. With an air temperature of 87°F and a water temperature of 72.14°F, can you really blame them?

Autumn

As we’ve already mentioned, autumn in Hossegor is ideal as it keeps the water warm from summer. In September and early October, the water temperature shouldn’t really drop below 70°F, which means your 2/3mm summer wetsuit is more than enough to keep you warm until then.

Towards the end of October, the water temperature around Hossegor changes significantly and a 4/3mm wetsuit comes into play. At the end of November, the water temperature drops below 60°F and 3mm boots and gloves start to be worn by locals and tourists alike.

Winter

Winter can be considered cold in Hossegor, so good quality rubber is a must. However, if you have a high quality 4/3mm wetsuit with a fleece inner lining and taped GBS seams, then you should be fine in winter in Hossegor.

Some surfers who feel the cold easily will wear a 5/3mm wetsuit, but this is not considered the norm. You can get by with 3mm boots and gloves, but it’s a good idea to bring 5mm boots just in case. Hoods and surf hats are a must to mitigate the effects of air temperature and early duck dives (which cause brain freeze).

Spring

If you’re heading to Hossegor in early spring, you’ll need boots and maybe even gloves for long sessions in comfort. The water will slowly start to warm up and, around April, most surfers will be ditching their wetsuits and wearing only 4/3mm wetsuits.

If you’re heading to Hossegor in late spring, there’s no need to bring any accessories, and you’ll probably be able to make do with your 3/2mm wetsuit.

Where to surf in Hossegor?

Now that the formalities are behind us, it’s time to get down to business. Surfing in Hossegor can be tricky, but if you know where to look, you should be able to find a spot suited to your level, and paddle out on the best waves of the day (well, that’s the idea anyway).

Capbreton

Although Capbreton is not technically part of Hossegor, it should definitely be added. Capbreton and Hossegor are separated by a beautiful river mouth.

Known for its waterside restaurants, fish market, relaxed lifestyle and much more French atmosphere than Hossegor, Capbreton is a great place to visit, even without chasing the waves. In the water, it’s all about the spot known as La Piste/ VVF. Also known as ‘bunkers’, the beach is lined with former World War II bunkers that make for impressive surf photos.

The wave breaks best at high tide and is known for its steep drops, fast sections and numerous barrel possibilities. In summer, when the waves aren’t as vicious, it becomes extremely popular with beginner surfers, so expect to share the waves with lots of people in Capbreton.

La Sud

When the waves are big at Hossegor, La Sud is the only place that offers a little respite and shelter from the breaking swells. This makes it a haven for beginner and intermediate surfers who can’t wait for waves when everyone else is at their peak.

There can be 10 feet two hundred metres north at La Nord, and 2-3 feet at La Sud. It breaks just north of the river mouth wall and can produce fun walls left and right. It breaks best at low to medium tide and stops breaking at high tide. Because of its ease, expect crowds all year round, with local longboarders also enjoying the gentler waves of La Sud.

La Nord

During the summer months, La Nord is more or less a sleeping giant waiting for winter to bring it back to life. Unlike the other surf spots in Hossegor, La Nord is a deep sandbank that lies around a hundred metres from the beach, just across from Centrale.

It takes a low tide and a very big swell for it to consider breaking, and half the time it doesn’t. But when the big north-westerly winter swells line up with an offshore wind, it turns into a playground for big-wave surfers.

You’ll see hardened locals paddling their 9ft-plus barrels, as well as pros taking step-offs in these gigantic waves. Waves that are big enough to drive a school bus through. Not for the faint of heart, you’ll need to know a thing or two about big wave surfing before paddling out to La Nord.

La Gravière

La Gravière is Hossegor’s first wave. It’s just a 5-minute walk along Hossegor Centrale beach and is the venue for the Quiksilver Pro every year.

La Gravière encompasses everything Hossegor is famous for, with powerful waves breaking just metres from the shore. The best time is a couple of hours either side of the high pressure, with offshore winds needed to keep the fast, hollow barrels open long enough to get out. The Gravière doesn’t really start doing its job until the waves reach at least 1.5 to 2.5 metres, and it can hold up to 2 to 3 metres of bone-breaking barrels in its day. Because it’s where the cameras and pro surfers flock, it’s a competitive wave for which you need to be lucky to get a good one.

If you have experience of powerful waves, then you’d be a fool not to try La Gravière. You never know, you could be standing in the kind of barrel that would make you dream.

Les Culs Nuls

Don’t worry if you spot a bit of nudity along this stretch of sand. Les Culs Nuls is one of Hossegor’s nudist beaches that happens to have some pretty epic sandbanks in front of it. At any time of day, you can find a pointy beach on the left, a rip bowl on the right, and a breaking crest at Les Culs Nuls. The sands change constantly along this stretch, but the quality of the waves rarely diminishes.

Often, if the sand at La Gravière is a bit weird, the Quiksilver Pro will move the show half a mile down the beach to Les Culs Nuls. Les Culs Nuls can break from 1 to 3 metres, and is always worth a look if you’re looking for waves.

Les Estagnots

Les Estagnots is renowned for its summer atmosphere and great waves. Just a few hundred metres north of Culs Nuls, Les Estagnots is one of the most consistent spots in the region.

Les Estagnots has a large beach car park which has played an important role in its popularity over the years. Les Estagnots is essentially a sequence of sandbanks that break at low to mid tide at the back, with fun shorey’s and rip bowls as the tide rises.

Barrels, turns, aerial sections, you can experience it all at Les Estagnots. Its banks are also so consistent, you’d be very unlucky not to find a few waves here. When you’re tired and covered in salt after a day of waves, sit at the beach bar, toes in the sand, and sip a cool drink as you watch the sun set over the surf – you’ll know why you came to Hossegor.

Les Bourdaines

Les Bourdaines is the next spot on this magical stretch of sand. A kilometre north as the crow flies from Les Estagnots, Les Bourdaines is a little less popular than Les Estagnots, with a smaller car park and fewer facilities.

However, the waves can be as good, if not better, than those at Estagnots, with multiple peaks along the beach. Again, Bourdaines can break at all levels of the tide, with waves moving onto the inner shore at high tide, and hitting the outer shore at low tide.

Bourdaines has the potential to close again when waves exceed 1.5-2.5m, but anything less should give you some really fun waves all day. There is no beach bar at Bourdaines, but there is a nightclub aptly named ‘The Tube’ which operates throughout the summer.

Le Penon

While Les Bourdaines is the quietest and least developed spot on this part of the coast, Le Penon is anything but. It’s almost a mini-city in itself, with restaurants, shops, a water park and loads of panini and burger bars located right at the beach entrance.

Le Penon is a good place to check out when the tide is medium to high, as it is known for its constant high tide banks with very undulating walls. The low tide banks are not as constant as at Les Estagnots or Les Bourdaines, but they are still worth checking, especially on short days.

If you like surfing on concrete, there’s a fun skatepark just north of the beach entrance, with a succession of bowls, bumps and ramps to hurtle down. Just be careful of the sand that comes from the dunes and accumulates in the park, as it can make some sections of concrete slippery.

Where to stay

Hossegor has a large number of surf houses and camps offering tailor-made surf programmes during the summer months.

From May to October, you should have no trouble finding a decent camp that offers complete surf packages including lessons, rentals, transport and meals. Yoga is also gaining ground in surf camps, as flexibility goes hand in hand with good performance in the water.

One thing you should always consider is how close the surf camp is to the action. You’ll find plenty of camps within a stone’s throw of spots like La Gravière and Les Estagnots, but beware, as there are others on the outskirts of town (about 5km from the beach).

Of course, they have their own transport service, and you can always hire a bike, but nothing beats a stay by the beach. In winter, surf-style accommodation is scarce around Hossegor, and you’ll have to turn to hotels and Airbnbs.

A flat day on the horizon may depress you at first, but trust us when we say you won’t run out of things to do around Hossegor. Even if the surfing has been intense, taking a day off will help you recharge the batteries and give you a new perspective on this beautiful part of France.

The Soorts shopping area

The area is an industrial zone on the outskirts of Hossegor, known for its surf shops and factory outlets. Think of it as a large shopping centre, except that each shop is a warehouse and is filled with surfboards and equipment.

You can easily spend half a day browsing the shops, which include Quiksilver, Billabong, Vans, Globe, Carhart, as well as boutique-style surf shops with fashion-focused brands. The area is full of delicious takeaways, some healthy, some not so healthy. Restaurants, organic food markets, specialist cafes, the place is a bustling town in itself, and something not to be missed. You’ll find incredibly good deals on last season’s clothes, as well as the latest new arrivals.

A walk on Lake Hossegor

One of the pride and joys of Hossegor is its lake. Stretching for 3.7 miles, taking a walk around the perimeter of the lake is a must in town. Although it’s called a lake, and certainly looks like one, Hossegor’s lake is actually connected to the ocean, and is therefore dictated by the tides.

The west side of the lake has some idyllic beaches that are popular with young families. Cafés line the lake on all sides, so if you get a little thirsty along the way, you’re well catered for. However, if you’re looking for quintessential Hossegor, dining at one of the iconic oyster restaurants lining the northern end of the lake is a must. Fresh oysters are delivered daily to this popular chain of restaurants from the lake’s oyster park, and it’s a beautiful thing.

The view from these restaurants, with the lake directly in front and the Pyrenees in the distance, is one you won’t soon forget. Oysters, wine, sunshine – if you’re going to visit the South West of France, you might as well do it in style.

Day trip to Biarritz

Biarritz is a chic city by the ocean that feels a world away from the small surf town of Hossegor. Of course, there are some great surf spots in and around Biarritz, but the town tends to attract a different kind of tourist, let’s put it that way. Biarritz is very popular with Parisians on their summer holidays, so dressing well comes with the territory in Biarritz. It’s also a mainstay of French Basque, so expect to see plenty of houses and flats adorned with green and red trim. Biarritz has it all: designer boutiques, high-end restaurants, quirky bars, a thriving food market in the town centre, a seaside casino and impressive architecture to explore.

Its geography is also very different from that of Hossegor, with winding cliffs and hidden bays along its coastline. Walk the coastal path from the Grande Plage to the famous surfing beach of the Côte des Basques to get an idea of the beauty of this town.

Summary

There’s a reason Hossegor is on every traveller’s surfing bucket list. The mix of world-class beach breaks, French culture, incredible food, delicious wines and temperate climate is too good to pass up. Whether you’re looking to score the waves of your life, learn to surf or make your very first barrel, depending on the year, it’s all possible in Hossegor.

We hope this article has given you a good insight into the hows and whens of approaching these sacred sands, so that you can soon make your mark on some of France’s beautiful beaches.